“Gold” on a jewellery label can mean very different things. A ring sold as gold might be solid gold, or it might be brass with a coating so thin it rubs off within weeks. Gold vermeil sits in between, and when it is done properly it is one of the best ways to wear real gold every day. Here is what it is, how it compares, and why the thickness of the gold matters more than anything else.
What is gold vermeil?
Gold vermeil (pronounced “ver-may”) is sterling silver covered with a layer of real gold. Two things make it vermeil rather than ordinary gold plating:
- The base is a precious metal. Underneath the gold is sterling silver, not brass, copper or steel.
- The gold layer is thick. In the United States, where the term is regulated, vermeil must have at least 2.5 microns of gold of at least 10 karat.
A micron is one thousandth of a millimetre. That sounds tiny, but in jewellery it makes all the difference between a piece that lasts years and one that fades in months.
Vermeil vs gold plated vs gold filled vs solid gold
Gold plated: usually a brass, copper or steel base with a gold layer that is often well under 1 micron. It can wear through quickly.
Gold filled: usually a brass base with a thicker sheet of gold bonded to the surface. Long-lasting, but the core is not precious.
Gold vermeil: a sterling silver base with at least 2.5 microns of gold (ours: 3 to 8). Years of wear when cared for, and it can be re-plated.
Solid gold: gold all the way through. It lasts a lifetime, at a much higher price.
The important difference is what happens when the gold eventually wears. On plated brass or steel, a base metal appears that can discolour or irritate the skin. On vermeil, what lies underneath is still a precious metal, and the piece can be re-plated to look new again.
How we make our gold vermeil
At Atelier Té we go well beyond the minimum:
- 18 karat gold, which is 75% pure gold, for a warm, rich colour.
- 8 microns on rings and bangles, the pieces that rub against hands, desks and other jewellery every day.
- 3 to 5 microns on earrings, which see far less friction.
- A recycled sterling silver base. Every piece starts in recycled .925 silver. (The gold layer itself is not recycled.)
- Plated in Zug, Switzerland, after each piece has been made by hand in small batches of fewer than ten by our team of four jewellers, and finished in our Zürich atelier.
Because thick vermeil takes time, many of our gold pieces are made to order and ship in about a week.
Is gold vermeil worth it?
If you want the look and feel of real gold for everyday wear, without the price of solid gold, good vermeil is the honest middle ground. You are paying for two precious metals, not for a coating on a cheap base. The thicker the gold, the longer it stays beautiful, which is why we always tell you exactly how many microns each piece carries.
How to care for gold vermeil
- Put it on last, after perfume, creams and hairspray, and take it off before showering, swimming or exercising.
- Wipe it with a soft, dry cloth after wearing. Avoid silver polish and abrasive cloths on the gold surface.
- Store each piece separately in its pouch so harder stones or chains don't scratch it.
- After years of wear, a vermeil piece can be re-plated. Contact us and we'll help.
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